Goma Okabe (Sesame Tofu / Explanation of Sankouin Cuisin）

Three distinctive features of Sankouin’s Goma Okabe (sesame tofu):

1. Uses raw, peeled sesame seeds (not roasted ones).

2. The grinding pestle is made from a Japanese pepper (*sansho*) tree found on the temple grounds.

3. The word "tofu" is avoided, as it is considered a taboo term.

　　　　　　Depending on the season and the day's weather, I often serve it with raw soy sauce and wasabi.

                                    A booklet on goma-dofu (sesame tofu) written by Head Priest Koei Hoshino.

⚠️ Please proceed below only if you wish to know more details.

For the meal itself, the information provided above should be quite sufficient.

As the monk Soei Yoneda has said, part of the dining experience lies in sensing the season and the atmosphere of the setting.

We hope you enjoy both the space and the time spent here.

If you remain interested after your visit, please feel free to read the additional information below.

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Despite its name, goma-dofu (sesame tofu) is not actually tofu; the name is misleading.

Some people misunderstand what it is based on the name, mistakenly believing it to be a food product made by mixing sesame into regular tofu.

In reality, goma-dofu is made using only sesame, water, and a solidifying agent. While the specific solidifying agent can vary depending on the situation, kuzu (arrowroot starch) is typically used.

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Furthermore, at Sankōu-in, the word "tōfu" is traditionally not used.

This is because the second character in the word "tōfu" (fu) is the same as the character for "rot" or "decay" (*kusaru*); consequently, it is avoided as an unlucky word.

Therefore, at Sankōu-in, dishes that would normally be called "XX-tōfu" are instead referred to as "XX-okabe." This term belongs to nyōbō-kotoba (the specialized vocabulary used by court ladies)*1.

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Sankouin’s goma-dofu (sesame tofu) is exceptionally white. This is because it is made using raw, hulled sesame seeds.

In contrast, standard goma-dofu is typically made with roasted sesame seeds—likely to ensure a rich, aromatic burst of flavor the moment it enters the mouth.

The Takenogosho（竹之御所/A special temple entered by an imperial princess and operated with the support of the aristocracy.） school, however, holds a different ideal: the subtle aroma of sesame should rise gently only after the tofu has been swallowed.

Occasionally—and very rarely—those accustomed to the roasted-sesame variety would remark that Sankoin’s goma-dofu lacked sesame flavor, unless the specific method was explained to them. It was truly that unusual.

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However, in recent years, the practice of making goma-dofu (sesame tofu) using raw, hulled sesame seeds has become established—both at the high-end kaiseki restaurants that come to Sankouin to learn and eventually collaborate on special menus, and in the classes of major culinary schools that send students to Sankouin annually for practical training and hands-on experiences.

Please savor the flavor and its subtle aroma.

During the colder months, it may be served with a ginger-flavored thickened sauce, but tasting it with just a little raw soy sauce truly brings out the best qualities of the sesame.

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Sansho leaves are used to make kinome-miso (Japanese pepper leaf miso paste), while the berries are versatile ingredients that enhance a wide variety of dishes.

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A sansho山椒 (Japanese pepper) tree is used to make the pestle for grinding sesame seeds.

Since the grinding takes place in a mortar, the wood must be hard; if a soft wood were used, it would wear down, causing wood shavings to mix into the sesame.

Of course, there are countless types of wood harder than sansho. However, the fundamental spirit of shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) is to "use what is available and make full use of it."

Therefore, within the context of the trees growing at Sankouin specifically, the sansho is considered a hard wood. Moreover, the sansho trees here were not planted or cultivated by the temple; they are entirely gifts from the birds.

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In the world of the tenzo典座 (the monk in charge of the kitchen), sesame tofu is sometimes referred to as "ascetic training food."

In a booklet about sesame tofu, Head Priest Koei Hoshino（星野香栄） writes something rather daunting: "It takes ten years of grinding sesame seeds; only when blood blisters form on your palms can you truly call yourself a master." (As he is a Zen monk, this likely implies more than just the literal act of grinding sesame seeds.)

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On the other hand, sesame tofu is considered a simple dish that anyone can make.

It involves simple ingredients and a simple preparation method—anyone can do it. Yet, the finished product varies significantly depending on the person who makes it.

Consider, for instance, Kanatsu-san（香夏さん）—an apprentice of Ms. Kosyun Nishii(西井香春)and the lead instructor for the "Goma-Okabe" (sesame tofu) workshop—and Kashi-san（香志さん）, another apprentice who worked at a restaurant（青草窠） holding a Michelin star for 20 consecutive years. When they tried making it using the exact same ingredients, quantities, procedures, and molds, the difference in size alone was as much as one-and-a-half-fold! (You can see the results on Instagram.)

Because it is such an enjoyable process, Sankouin regularly hosts workshops where you can try making goma-okabe (sesame tofu) yourself. If you find it delicious, I highly encourage you to give making it a try!

※As of 2026, it is held on the last Wednesday of even-numbered months.

Incidentally, the delicious texture and flavor derived from kuzu (arrowroot starch) do not last long, so it is not suitable for storage; the general rule is to eat it immediately after preparation. If you do not plan to eat it right away, potato starch is used instead. (For further details, please refer to the works of Ms. Kousyun Nishii.)

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*1

The term nyōbō here does not refer to a "wife" in the sense of a spouse.

In times past, there were words used exclusively by people of specific social ranks.

The most famous example is Chin (the imperial "We"). The Japanese language has a vast array of first-person pronouns—such as watashi, boku, ore, washi, and wagahai—yet Chin is a term reserved solely for the Emperor.

Similarly, there was a specific vocabulary used exclusively by court ladies. Broadly speaking, this is known as kyūchū kotoba (court language).

The character bō (房) in the word nyōbō (女房) signifies a private chamber; the term originally referred to court ladies who were allotted such personal living quarters. These women held relatively high status among the ranks of court ladies.

Sankō-in’s cuisine is frequently described in the media as "vegetarian fare befitting a noble lady" (*himegimi*). However, I interpret this not merely as food prepared by historically renowned imperial princesses, but as a culinary tradition cultivated by nameless nuns and court ladies. In other words, it is a cuisine specially created to be served to former imperial princesses—women of noble lineage (often of rank equal to or higher than the court nobility)—who had taken holy orders and entered ama-monzeki temples (convents headed by women of imperial or aristocratic birth).

While there were instances where a noble lady might enter a convent alone—due to financial hardship or the yūshi（猶子） system, a practice of adopting a non-blood-related girl as the family’s "princess" and having her take vows—it is generally believed that they were accompanied by their attendant court ladies when they entered religious life.

The language used by these court ladies is known as nyōbōu-kotoba (court lady language). (Those interested may wish to consult a dictionary of courtly language.) Today, almost all of these terms have fallen out of use.

Mindful of this history, Sankōu-in has made a deliberate choice to preserve at least those terms related to cuisine; we continue to use various nyōbōu-kotoba in our daily lives. One such example is referring to tofu as "*okabe*."

What is "*okabe*"? It refers to a white plaster wall. The term likens tofu to the white walls—common in the Imperial Court and in convents for noblewomen—by adding the honorific prefix on御- (or o-) to the word for wall (*kabe壁*), resulting in "*onkabe*" or "*okabe(御壁)*.”

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